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.\" setup for recipe document, to be printed by rctypeset, rcshow or rcbook
.\"
.\" Type Codes:
.\"   A  appetizer, snack	B  bread, pasta   [X C  cake, cookie, candy]
.\"   D  desert			L  Beverage		M  main dish
.\"   O  other			S  sauce		SL  salad
.\"   SP  soup			V  vegetable dish
.\"   ---------------------------------
.\" .RH MOD.RECIPES-SOURCE "RECIPE-ID(<=15 UC char)" "type code" "date"
.RH MOD.RECIPES-SOURCE "SAUCE-WHITE" "S" "11/11/95"
.\" .RZ "RECIPE TITLE IN CAPITALS" "One-line description of it"
.RZ "VARIOUS WHITE SAUCES" "white sauces: \fIsauce b\*(e'chamel, sauce velout\*(e', sauce supr\*(e^me, sauce parisienne, sauce mornay, sauce aurore, sauce au cari, sauce soubise, sauce b\*(a^tarde\fP"
.\"   ---------------------------------
.\" Introductory comments; use .PP between paragraphs.
.\" Cite full cookbook reference or other sources.
The following pages give recipes for several brown sauces:
.in +.5i
.I sauce b\*(e'chamel, 
white roux with white stock;
.br
.I sauce velout\*(e', 
white roux with milk;
.br
.I sauce supr\*(e^me 
or
.I sauce cr\*(e`me,
.I velout\*(e'
or
.I b\*(e'chamel 
enriched with cream, lemon juice and butter;
.br
.I sauce parisienne
(formerly 
.I sauce allemande),
.I velout\*(e'
or
.I b\*(e'chamel 
enriched with egg yolks and cream, lemon juice and butter;
.br
.I sauce mornay,
.I velout\*(e'
or
.I b\*(e'chamel
with cheese;
.br
.I sauce aurore,
.I velout\*(e'
or
.I b\*(e'chamel
enriched with tomato pur\*(e'e and butter;
.br
.I sauce au cari,
light curry sauce, made with curry, white stock, flour, cream and butter;
.br
.I sauce soubise,
onion sauce, made with onions, white stock, flour, cream and butter;
.br
.I sauce b\*(a^tarde,
mock hollandaise, made with white stock, egg yolk, cream, lemon juice and
butter.
.in
.PP
The basic or \fIgrand\fP white sauces, 
.I b\*(e'chamel 
and 
.I velout\*(e',
are made from a \fIroux\fP, flour lightly cooked with an equal volume of butter,
and either white stock or milk, respectively.
The cooking removes the pasty taste of the flour and prepares the
flour to absorb the liquid.
The amount of flour in the \fIroux\fP controls the thickness of the
sauce: 
.TS
center;
lw(2i)	lw(2i).
Thin sauce or soup	1 Tbsp flour per cup liquid
Medium, general purpose sauce	1-1/2 Tbsp flour per cup liquid
Thick sauce	2 Tbsp flour per cup liquid
Souffl\*(e' base	3 Tbsp flour per cup liquid
.TE
.PP
The basic sauces typically are enriched.
For butter enrichment, add 1 or 2 Tbsp butter per cup, or up to 8 Tbsp
butter for a rich fish sauce.
Cream enrichment of a 
.I b\*(e'chamel
or 
.I velout\*(e'
gives a 
.I sauce cr\*(e`me 
or
.I supr\*(e^me.
Enrichment with egg yolks and cream give the richest sauces;
the generic name is 
.I parisienne
or
.I allemande,
but often the name is according to the dish it accompanies
or the special flavorings, for example, 
.I sauce poulette
and the sauces for fish and shellfish, 
.I normande, cardinal, Nantua, Joinville.
.PP
Clearly, not all white sauces are based upon 
.I velout\*(e'
or
.I b\*(e'chamel,
for example,
.I sauce b\*(a^tarde
and derived butter sauces, or
.I hollandaise
and derived sauces.
.PP
The basic 
.I b\*(e'chamel 
and various other sauces are made with white stock.
For fish or chicken or veal dishs, 
the poaching or stewing liquid may be used.
A substitute made from canned chicken broth is given in the
recipe SAUCE-STOCK-SUB and also below.
.PP
From JC, page 55; LAROU, pages 842 and 851; DIAT, page 64.
.\"   ---------------------------------
.\" Wrapup:
.\" Signature information. As a minimum you should list your
.\" name, network address, organization (company, university, etc.), and
.\" the city you live or work in.
.\" .WR
.\" John Rupley.
.\" .br
.\" Department of Biochemistry, University of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85711
.\" .br
.\" rupley@cs.arizona.edu
.sp 2
.}E
.ce
SUBSTITUTE WHITE CHICKEN STOCK - white chicken stock from canned chicken broth
.IH "2 cups"
.IG "2 cups" "canned chicken broth"
or
.I strained clear chicken and vegetable soup
.IG "3 Tbsp" "carrots,"
finely minced
.IG "3 Tbsp" "onions,"
finely minced
.IG "3 Tbsp" "celery,"
finely minced
.IG "1/2 cup" "dry white wine"
or 1/3 cup
.I dry white vermouth
.IG "2" "sprigs parsley"
.IG "1/3" "bay leaf"
.IG "1/8 tsp" "thyme"
.PH
.SK 1
Simmer the chicken broth or soup with the rest of the ingredients for 30
minutes.
Season to taste,
strain through a fine sieve,
and the stock substitute is ready to be used for a sauce.
.bp
.}E
.in -1i
SAUCE B\*(E'CHAMEL or SAUCE VELOUT\*(E' - basic white sauces, made from white 
.I roux
and white stock or milk
.in
.PP
Traditional basic white sauces.
.PP
The amount of flour controls the thickness of the sauce.
.PP
From JC, page 57.
.IH "2 cups"
.IG "" "heavy-bottomed 6-cup saucepan"
.IG "" "small saucepan"
.IG "" "wooden spatula"
.IG "" "wire whip"
or
.I spoon
.sp
.IG "2 Tbsp" "butter"
.IG "3 Tbsp" "flour,"
for a medium sauce; use 4 Tbsp flour and 3 Tbsp butter for a thick sauce
.sp
.IG "2 cups" "milk"
with 1/4 tsp
.I salt
heated to the boil in a small saucepan
.br
or
.IG "" "boiling white stock"
.sp
.IG "" "salt and pepper"
.PH
.SK 1
Put the milk and salt or the stock into the small saucepan,
and over moderate heat (@4-5) bring to the boil.
.SK 2
In the large saucepan, melt the butter over low heat (@2-3).
Blend in the flour, and cook slowly (@2-3), stirring, until the butter
and flour froth together for 2 minutes without coloring.
This is now a white 
.I roux.
.SK 3
Remove 
.I roux
from the heat.
.SK 4
As soon as the
.I roux
has stopped bubbling, pour in all the hot liquid at once.
Immediately beat vigorously with wire whip to blend liquid and
.I roux,
gathering in all bits of 
.I roux
from the inside edges of the pan.
.SK 5
Set saucepan over moderately high heat (@5) and stir with the wire whip
until the sauce comes to the boil.
Boil 1 minute, stirring.
.SK 6
Remove from heat.
Beat in salt and pepper to taste.
Sauce is now ready for final flavorings or additions.
If not used immediately, clean sauce off inside edges of pan with a rubber
scraper.
To prevent a skin from forming, float a thin film of milk, stock or melted
butter on top.
Set aside uncovered, keep hot over simmering water, refrigerate, or freeze.
.NX
Remedial measures:
.sp
\fISauce is lumpy\fP\ \ If the
.I roux
was hot and the liquid near the boil, you should not have gotten lumps.
If there are, force liquid through a very fine sieve or use electric
blender.
Then simmer for 5 minutes.
.sp
\fISauce is too thick\fP\ \ Bring to the simmer.  Thin out with milk, cream,
or stock, beaten in by the tablespoon.
.sp
\fISauce is too thin\fP\ \ Either boil down over moderately high heat (@8),
stirring continually with a wooden spoon, until sauce has reduced to the
correct consistency, or, blend half a tablespoon of butter into a paste
with half a tablespoon of flour 
.I (beurre mani\*(e').
Off heat, beat the paste into the sauce with wire whip.
Boil for 1 minute, stirring.
.PP
.I Verified:
fully, for 
.I b\*(e'chamel.
.bp
.}E
.in -1i
BUTTER ENRICHMENT - butter enrichment of \fIsauce\fP \fIb\*(e'chamel\fP or \fIvelout\*(e'\fP
.in
.PP
Enrichment smooths out the sauce and imparts a "French" taste.
.PP
If more than 1 tablespoon butter is beaten into a cup of sauce, the sauce
should be used immediately.
It the sauce is reheated, or kept hot, or used for a
.I gratin\*(e'e
dish, the butter either liquifies and the sauce thins out, or the butter
releases and floats on top of the sauce.
To recover, treat like turned hollandaise.
.PP
From JC, page 58.
.IH "2 cups"
.IG "" "wire whip"
.sp
.IG "2 to 8 Tbsp" "butter"
(1 to 2 Tbsp is the usual amount)
.IG "2 cups" ""
\fIb\*(e'chamel\fP or \fIvelout\*(e'\fP
.PH
.SK 1
Just before serving the sauce, and after all the final flavorings have
been added, remove it from heat.
Stir in the butter, by half-tablespoons, beating until each piece of butter
has been absorbed into the sauce before adding the next.
Spoon the sauce over the hot food, or pour into a warmed bowl and serve
immediately.
.bp
.}E
.in -1i
SAUCE CR\*(E`ME or SAUCE SUPR\*(E^ME - \fIb\*(e'chamel\fP or \fIvelout\*(e'\fP
sauce enriched with cream, lemon juice and butter
.in
.PP
For: vegetables, eggs, fish, poultry, hot hors d'oeuvres, and for dishs
which are to be 
.I gratin\*(e'ed.
.PP
The cream thins out the sauce, so the basic sauce must be thick.
.PP
From JC, page 59.
.IH "2 cups"
.IG "1-1/2 cups" "thick"
\fIb\*(e'chamel\fP or \fIvelout\*(e'\fP
(3 Tbsp flour, 2-1/2 Tbsp butter, 1-1/2 cups liquid)
.IG "1/2 cup" "whipping cream"
.IG "" "salt and white pepper,"
.IG "" "lemon juice"
.sp
.IG "1 to 2 Tbsp" "softened butter,"
except no butter is sauce is to be used for a 
.I gratin\*(e'ed
dish
.PH
.SK 1
Bring the sauce to the simmer.
Beat in the cream by spoonfuls,
simmering, until the sauce is the consistency you want.
Season to taste with salt, white pepper, and drops of lemon juice.
.SK 2
Off heat, just before serving,
beat in the optional butter by half-tablespoons.
.NX
Be sure sauce not too thick, 
especially for fish.  
The sauce thickens as it cools.
.PP
.I Verified:
fully, for 
.I sauce cr\*(e`me.
.bp
.}E
.in -1i
SAUCE PARISIENNE or SAUCE ALLEMANDE - 
\fIb\*(e'chamel\fP or \fIvelout\*(e'\fP
enriched with egg yolks and cream, lemon juice and butter
.PP
For: eggs, fish, poultry, hot hors d'oeuvres and dishs to be 
.I gratin\*(e'ed.  A heavily buttered 
.I parisienne
is used principally for fish poached in white wine.
.PP
Egg yolks will curdle unless beaten with a bit of cold liquid first,
before a hot liquid is gradually incorporated into them so that they are
slowly heated.
Once this has been done, the sauce may be brought to the boil,
because the egg yolks are supported by a flour-based sauce.
.PP
Use no butter as the final enrichment if the sauce is to be used for a
.I gratin\*(e'ed
dish.
.PP
From JC, page 60.
.IH "2 cups"
.IG "" "heavy-bottomed 8-cup saucepan"
.IG "" "electric mixer,"
with wire whip beater and 8-cup mixing bowl
.IG "" "wire whip"
.IG "" "wooden spatula or spoon"
.sp
.IG "1-1/2 cups" "thick"
\fIb\*(e'chamel\fP or \fIvelout\*(e'\fP
(3 Tbsp flour, 2-1/2 Tbsp butter, 1-1/2 cups liquid)
.sp
.IG "2" "egg yolks"
.IG "1/2 cup" "whipping cream"
.sp
.IG "" "salt and pepper"
.IG "" "lemon juice"
.Ig "" "more cream,"
if necessary
.sp
.IG "1 to 2 Tbsp" "softened butter",
optional
.PH
.SK 1
Bring the 
.I b\*(e'chamel
sauce to the simmer in the saucepan.
.SK 2
Add the egg yolks to the mixing bowl,
beat (KAW @4) for 2 minutes.
Blend in cream (KAW @2), then blend in hot liquid slowly
over 1 minute.
Pour mixture back into saucepan.
.SK 3
Bring to the boil over moderately high heat (@8), 
stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, reaching all over bottom of pan.
Boil and stir for 1 minute.
.SK 4
Strain the sauce through a fine sieve to remove coagulated bits of
egg white which always cling to the yolk.
Rinse out the saucepan and return the sauce to it.
Simmer over low heat (@1-2).
Check seasoning, adding salt, pepper and  drops of lemon juice to taste.
If sauce is too thick, beat in more cream by the tablespoon.
.SK 5
If the sauce is not used immediately, clean off sides of pan, float a
thin film of cream or stock over the surface.
Sauce will thicken and look custardy as it cools.
It will smooth out when reheated.
Sauce may be frozen.
.SK 5
Off heat, just before serving, stir in the optional butter by bits.
.bp
.}E
.in -1i
SAUCE MORNAY -
\fIb\*(e'chamel\fP or \fIvelout\*(e'\fP
with cheese
.in
.PP
For: eggs, fish, poultry, veal, vegetables, pastas, and hot hors d'oeuvres.
.PP
If the sauce is to be use in a 
.I gratin\*(e'e,
use the minimum amount of cheese land omit the final butter enrichment.
Too much cheese makes the sauce stringy, and butter will exude from the
top of a sauce when under the broiler.
.PP
From JC, page 61.
.IH "2 cups"
.IG "2 cups" "medium"
\fIb\*(e'chamel\fP or \fIvelout\*(e'\fP
(3 Tbsp flour, 2-1/2 Tbsp butter, 2 cups liquid)
.IG "1/4-1/2 cup" "coarsely grated Swiss cheese,"
or a combination of 
.I coarsely grated Swiss
and 
.I finely grated Parmesan
.sp
.IG "" "salt and pepper"
.IG "pinch" "nutmeg"
.IG "pinch" "cayenne pepper,"
optional
.sp
.IG "1 to 2 Tbsp" "softened butter,"
optional
.PH
.SK 1
Bring the sauce to the boil.
Remove from heat.
Beat in the cheese until it has melted and blended with the sauce.
.SK 2
Season to taste with salt, pepper, nutmeg and optional cayenne pepper.
.SK 3
Off heat, and just before serving, stir in the optional butter by bits.
.bp
.}E
.in -1i
SAUCE AURORE -
\fIb\*(e'chamel\fP or \fIvelout\*(e'\fP
with tomato flavoring
.in
.PP
For: eggs, fish, chicken, vegetables.
.PP
From JC, page 62.
.IH "2 cups"
.IG "2 cups" "medium"
\fIb\*(e'chamel\fP or \fIvelout\*(e'\fP
(3 Tbsp flour, 2-1/2 Tbsp butter, 2 cups liquid)
.br
or
.br
.IG "" ""
.I sauce cr\*(e`me
or
.I sauce supr\*(e^me
.IG "2 to 6 Tbsp" "cooked fresh tomato pur\*(e'e"
or 
.I tomato paste
.sp
.IG "1 to 2 Tbsp" "softened butter"
.IG "1 to 2 Tbsp" "minced fresh parsley, chervil, basil,"
or
.I tarragon;
optional
.PH
.SK 1
Bring the sauce to the simmer.
Stir in the tomato, by spoonfuls, until the color and flavor desired has
been obtained.
Correct seasoning.
.SK 2
Off heat and just before serving,
stir in the butter by bits, and the optional herbs.
.bp
.}E
.in -1i
SAUCE AU CARI -
light curry sauce, made with curry, white stock, flour, cream and butter
.in
.PP
For: fish, veal, lamb, chicken, turkey, eggs and vegetables.
.PP
Here, the 
\fIb\*(e'chamel\fP or \fIvelout\*(e'\fP
is made simultaneously with the curry flavorings.
.PP
From JC, page 63.
.IH "2-1/2 cups"
.IG "" "heavy-bottomed 8-cup saucepan"
.sp
.IG "1/2 cup" "finely minced white"
or 
.I yellow onions
.IG "4 Tbsp" "butter"
.sp
.IG "2 to 3 Tbsp" "curry powder"
.sp
.IG "4 Tbsp" "flour"
.sp
.IG "2 cups" "boiling milk, white stock,"
or
.I fish stock
.sp
.IG "4 to 6 Tbsp" "whipping cream"
.IG "" "salt and pepper"
.IG "" "lemon juice"
.sp
.IG "1 to 2 Tbsp" "softened butter"
.IG "2 to 3 Tbsp" "minced parsley,"
optional
.PH
.SK 1
Bring the liquid to a boil.
.SK 2
Cook the onions over low heat (@2-3) for 10 minutes without allowing the
onions to color.
.SK 3
Stir in the curry powder and cook slowly for 2 minutes (@2-3).
.SK 4
Add the flour and stir over low heat for 3 minutes (@2-3).
.SK 5
Off heat, blend in the boiling liquid.
Return sauce to heat, and simmer slowly (@2-3) for 10 to 15 minutes,
stirring occasionally.
.SK 6
Stir in the cream by tablespoons,
until sauce has thinned to consistency wanted.
Check seasoning, adding salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste.
.SK 7
Off heat, and just before serving, stir in the butter by bits and 
then the optional parsley.
.bp
.}E
.in -1i
SAUCE SOUBISE -
onion sauce, made with onions, white stock, flour, cream and butter;
.in
.PP
For: eggs, veal, chicken, turkey, lamb, vegetables, and food which are to be
.I gratin\*(e'ed
.PP
From JC, page 64.
.IH "2-1/2 cups"
.IG "2" "2-1/2 qt heavy-bottomed saucepan"
.sp
.IG "1 lb" "sliced yellow onions,"
about 4 cups
.IG "1/4 tsp" "salt"
.IG "6 Tbsp" "butter"
.sp
.IG "4 Tbsp" "flour"
.sp
.IG "2 cups" "boiling milk, white stock,
or
.I fish stock
.sp
.IG 6 to 8 Tbsp" "whipping cream"
.IG "" "salt and pepper"
.IG "pinch" "nutmeg"
.sp
.IG "1 to 2 Tbsp" "softened butter,"
except no butter if dish is a 
.I gratin\*(e'e
.PH
.SK 1
Bring the liquid to a boil.
.SK 2
Cook the onions slowly (@2-3) with the salt and butter in a covered saucepan
for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the onions are very tender but not browned.
.SK 3
Add the flour and stir over low heat (@2-3) for 3 minutes.
.SK 4
Off heat, blend in the boiling liquid.
Simmer slowly for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Force the sauce through a sieve or food mill, or pur\*e'e it in 
an electric blender.
.SK 5
Bring again to the simmer.
Thin out to desired consistency with spoonfuls of cream.
Season to taste with salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
.SK 6
Off heat and just before serving, stir in the enrichment butter.
.bp
.}E
.in -1i
SAUCE B\*(A^TARDE or SAUCE AU BEURRE -
mock hollandaise, made with white stock, egg yolk, cream, lemon juice and
butter.
.in
.PP
For: boiled fish, boiled chicken, boiled lamb, boiled potatoes,
asparagus, cauliflower, celery, broccoli.
.PP
Quickly made and useful sauce.  Not strictly of the 
\fIb\*(e'chamel\fP or \fIvelout\*(e'\fP
family, because it is made with a
.I beurre mani\*(e'
rather than a
.I roux.
A golden color comes from the egg yolk.
With enough butter it suggests a hollandaise.
Thus the name "mock hollandaise".
.PP
From JC, page 64.
.IH "2 cups"
.IG "" "heavy-bottomed 8-cup saucepan"
.IG "" "electric mixer,"
with wire whip beater and 8-cup mixing bowl
.IG "" "rubber scraper"
.IG "" "wire whip"
.sp
.IG "2 cups" "boiling white stock,"
or
.I vegetable cooking water,
or
.I water 
and 1/4 tsp 
.I salt
.sp
.IG "2 Tbsp" "melted or softened butter"
.IG "3 Tbsp" "flour"
.sp
.IG "1" "egg yolk"
.IG "2 Tbsp" "whipping cream"
.IG "" "salt and pepper"
.IG "1 to 2 Tbsp" "lemon juice"
.sp
.IG "4 to 8 Tbsp" "softened butter"
.PH
.SK 1
Bring the liquid to a boil.
.SK 2
Put butter and flour in the saucepan and blend with the rubber scraper
into a smooth paste.
.SK 3
Pour on all the boiling liquid at once and blend vigorously with a wire
whip.
.SK 4
Put the egg yolk in the mixing bowl.
Beat for 2 minutes (KAW @4).
Blend in (KAW @2) the cream.
Blend in slowly, over 1 minute, the hot sauce.
Pour the mixture back into the sauce pan.
Bring to the boil over moderate heat (@5), beating, and boil 5 seconds.
Remove from heat.
Season to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.
If not used immediately, film surface with a half-tablespoon of melted
butter.
.SK 5
Off heat, just before serving, beat in the final butter enrichment,
by the tablespoon.
.NX
Variations:
.PP
.I Sauce aux capres -
caper sauce.
For: boiled fish or boiled leg of lamb.
Just before stirring in the final enrichment butter, beat
2 to 3 Tbsp capers into 2 cups 
.I sauce b\*(a^tarde.
.PP
.I Sauce \*(a` la moutarde -
mustard sauce.
For: broiled mackerel, herring, tuna, or swordfish.
For the final enrichment, use 2 Tbsp strong Dijon-type mustard
creamed with 4 to 8 Tbsp butter for 2 cups
.I sauce b\*(a^tarde.
.PP
.I Sauce aux anchois -
anchovy sauce.
Just before stirring in the final enrichment butter, beat
1 Tbsp anchovy paste or 2 Tbsp canned anchovies mashed into a pur\*(e'e
into 2 cups 
.I sauce b\*(a^tarde.
