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.\" setup for recipe document, to be printed by rctypeset, rcshow or rcbook
.\"
.\" Type Codes:
.\"   A  appetizer, snack	B  bread, pasta   [X C  cake, cookie, candy]
.\"   D  desert			L  Beverage		M  main dish
.\"   O  other			S  sauce		SL  salad
.\"   SP  soup			V  vegetable dish
.\"   ---------------------------------
.\" .RH MOD.RECIPES-SOURCE "RECIPE-ID(<=15 UC char)" "type code" "date"
.RH MOD.RECIPES-SOURCE "SAUCE-BROWN" "S" "11/9/95"
.\"   ---------------------------------
.\" .RZ "RECIPE TITLE IN CAPITALS" "One-line description of it"
.RZ "VARIOUS BROWN SAUCES" "brown sauces: \fIsauce brune, jus li\*(e', sauce diable, sauce robert, sauce brune aux fine herbes, sauce \*(a` l'estragon, sauce chasseur, sauce mad\*(e`re, sauce au porto, sauce bordelaise, sauce bourguignonne\fP"
.\"   ---------------------------------
.\" Introductory comments; use .PP between paragraphs.
.\" Cite full cookbook reference or other sources.
The following pages give recipes for several brown sauces:
.in +.5i
\fIsauce brune\fP, flour-based brown sauce;
.br
\fIjus li\*(e'\fP, starch-thickened brown sauce;
.br
\fIsauce diable\fP, peppery brown sauce;
.br
\fIsauce robert\fP, brown mustard sauce;
.br
\fIsauce brune aux fine herbes\fP, brown herb sauce;
.br
\fIsauce \*(a` l'estragon\fP, brown tarragon sauce;
.br
\fIsauce chasseur\fP, brown mushroom sauce with fresh tomatoes, garlic, and
herbs;
.br
\fIsauce mad\*(e`re\fP or \fIsauce au porto\fP, brown Madeira or port wine sauce;
.br
\fIsauce bordelaise\fP, brown sauce with red wine and shallots, and with
beef marrow;
.br
\fIsauce bourguignonne\fP, brown sauce with red wine, shallots and herbs,
thickened with flour and butter.
.PP
The traditional basic or \fIgrand\fP
brown sauces \fIespagnole\fP and
\fIdemi-glace\fP are made over what is often
several days cooking by reducing greatly a volume of stock 
with vegetables,
to obtain a thickened aromatic sauce.
.PP
The two basic brown sauces 
described below, 
\fIsauce brune\fP and \fIjus li\*(e'\fP,
are made from stock or a stock substitute
(see recipe SAUCE-STOCK-SUB)
thickened with flour or starch, 
and can be prepared in several hours.
.PP
The other sauces below are compound, or composed, sauces, derived from a basic
brown sauce, except for the brown deglazing sauce, made directly from
cooking juices.
When brown sauce is called for in these recipes, either of the basic
brown sauces described below, \fIsauce brune\fP or \fIjus li\*(e'\fP, 
or a true \fIdemi-glace\fP, may be used.
.PP
Composed sauces are generally combined with the cooking juices of the
dishs they accompany, and so pick up additional flavor.
.PP
Allow one cup of sauce for 3 or 4 servings.
.PP
From JC, page 66; LAROU, page 840; DIAT, page 74.
.NX
Saut\*(e'ed mushrooms may be added to many of the brown sauces
that do not have them in the basic recipe,
certainly to the
.I sauces mad\*(e`re, au porto, bordelaise, 
and
.I bourguignonne.
.PP
To do this,
saut\*(e' in a separate skillet 
1 lb sliced mushrooms in 4 tablespoons butter
until mushrooms are golden brown,
season with salt and pepper, 
then add the mushrooms and 2 tablespoons minced shallots or green onions 
to the reduced wine and brown sauce mixture.
.PP
The addition of mushrooms goes especially well with 
.I filet 
of beef or poultry.
.\"   ---------------------------------
.\" Wrapup:
.\" Signature information. As a minimum you should list your
.\" name, network address, organization (company, university, etc.), and
.\" the city you live or work in.
.\" .WR
.\" John Rupley.
.\" .br
.\" Department of Biochemistry, University of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85711
.\" .br
.\" rupley@cs.arizona.edu
.bp
.}E
.in -1i
SAUCE BRUNE - flour-based brown sauce
.in
.PP
Relatively quickly made (about 2 hours).  
Approaches the traditional \fIdemi-glace\fP.
May be refrigerated for several days and frozen for several weeks.
.PP
From JC, page 67.
.IH "1 quart"
.IG "2" "heavy-bottomed 2 qt saucepans"
.IG "" "wooden spatula or spoon"
.IG "" "wire whip"
.sp
.IG "1/3 cup" "carrots,"
finely diced
.IG "1/3 cup" "onions,"
finely diced
.IG "1/3 cup" "celery,"
finely diced
.IG "3 Tbsp" "boiled ham,"
diced, or
.I lean bacon,
blanched 10 minutes, rinsed, drained, and then diced
.IG "6 Tbsp" "clarified butter, rendered fresh pork fat,"
or
.I good cooking oil
.sp
.IG "4 Tbsp" "flour"
.sp
.IG "6 cups" "boiling brown stock"
(see recipe SAUCE-STOCK-SUB) or
.I canned beef bouillon
.IG "1 cup" "red wine"
or
.I white wine,
replacing 1 cup of stock, optional
.IG "2 Tbsp" "tomato paste"
.IG "" "medium herb bouquet:"
3 parsley sprigs, 1/2 bay leaf, 1/4 tsp thyme, tied in cheesecloth
.sp
.IG "" "salt and pepper"
.PH
.SK 1
Set the 6 cups of stock on to boil.
.SK 2
In the other saucepan,
cook the vegetables and the ham or bacon in the butter, fat or oil for
10 minutes (@2-3).
.SK 3
Blend in the flour and the vegetables and stir continuously over
moderately low heat (@3-4) for 8 to 10 minutes, until the flour slowly
turns a golden nut brown.
It is important that this \fIroux\fP (flour cooked together with fat)
be prepared carefully.
If the flour is burned, it will not thicken the sauce as it should and
will impart an unpleasant taste.
.SK 4
Remove from heat.
Immediately blend in all the boiling liquid at once.
Beat in the tomato paste.
Add the herb bouquet.
.SK 5
Simmer slowly for 2 hours or more, skimming off fat and scum.
Add more liquid if sauce thickens too much.
You should end up with 4 cups of sauce, thick enough to coat a spoon lightly.
.SK 6
Correct seasoning.
Strain, pressing juice out of vegetables.
Degrease thoroughly.
The sauce is ready to use.
If not used immediately, clean off sides of pan and float a film of stock
over the top of sauce to prevent a skin from forming, then when cold,
cover and refrigerate.
.NX
A cup of red or white wine may be added, replacing a cup of the boiling
stock.
.PP
Optionally, add 1/2 cup mushroom stems and peelings or pieces in step 4,
and add 1/3 cup Madeira or sherry at the last moment in step 5.
.PP
If the sauce is to be served with meat, 
raw or cooked trimmings may be browned with the vegetables and fat in the
first step, then removed and subsequently added back for the long simmering.
This is a \fIsauce rago\*(u^t\fP.
.bp
.}E
.in -1i
JUS LI\*(E' - starch-thickened brown sauce
.in
.PP
Very quickly made if stock is available, 
this sauce is essentially a thickened cooking liquid
from the stewing of meat.
If canned bouillon is to be used, it should be enhanced
(see recipe SAUCE-STOCK-SUB).
.PP
From JC, page 70.
.IH "2 cups"
.IG "" "4-cup saucepan"
.IG "" "wire whip"
.sp
.IG "2 cups" "brown stock,"
or
.I liquid from stewing meat,
or
.I brown stock substitute
(see recipe SAUCE-STOCK-SUB)
.IG "2 Tbsp" "cornstarch"
or
.I arrowroot
(the arrowroot gives a clearer sauce)
.sp
.IG "1/4 cup" "Madeira, port,"
or
.I cognac,
optional
.PH
.SK 1
Blend the cornstarch or arrowroot with 2 tablespoons of cold stock,
then beat in the rest of the stock.
Simmer for 5 minutes, or until sauce has cleared and is lightly thickened.
Correct seasoning.
.SK 2
Add optional wine or cognac.
Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, tasting, until alcohol has evaporated.
Sauce may be set aside and reheated when needed.
.bp
.}E
.in -1i
SAUCE DIABLE - peppery brown sauce
.in
.PP
For: broiled chicken, roast or braised pork, pork chops, hot meat leftovers.
.PP
From JC, page 71.
.IH "2 cups"
.IG "" "4-cup saucepan"
or 
.I "the meat-cooking pan with its degreased juices"
.sp
.IG "2 Tbsp" "minced shallots"
or
.I green onions
.IG "1 Tbsp" "butter"
or
.I cooking fat
.IG "1 cup" "dry white wine"
or 2/3 cup
.I dry white vermouth
.sp
.IG "2 cups" "brown sauce""
.IG "" "black pepper"
.IG "" "Cayenne pepper" and simmer for 2 minutes.
.sp
.IG "1 to 3 Tbsp" "softened butter"
.IG "2 to 3 Tbsp" "fresh minced parsley"
or
.I mixed green herbs
.PH
.SK 1
Cook the shallots or green onions slowly (@3) with the butter or cooking fat
for 2 minutes without browning.
Then add the wine and boil it down rapidly until reduced to 3 or 4
tablespoons.
.SK 2
Pour in the brown sauce and simmer for 2 minutes.
Season with enough pepper to give a spicy taste.
.SK 3
Off heat, and just before serving, swirl butter into sauce a bit at a time.
.NX
For \fIsauce piquant\fP, just before removing the sauce from the heat
in step 2, stir in 2 tablespoons each of capers and finely chopped pickles.
Simmer a moment, then off heat blend in butter and herbs.
.PP
For: roast or braised pork, pork chops, boiled or braised tongue,
boiled beef, hot meat leftovers.
.bp
.}E
.in -1i
SAUCE ROBERT - brown mustard sauce
.in
.PP
For: broiled chicken, or turkey, 
roast or braised pork, pork chops,
boiled beef, hot meat leftovers, hamburger.
.PP
From JC, page 72.
.IH "2 cups"
.IG "" "heavy-bottomed, 6-cup saucepan"
or
.I "meat-cooking pan with degreased juices"
.sp
.IG "1/4 cup" "finely minced yellow onions"
.IG "1 Tbsp" "butter"
.IG "1 tsp" "cooking oil"
or
.I cooking fat
.sp
.IG "1 cup" "dry white wine"
or 2/3 cup 
.I dry vermouth
.sp
.IG "2 cups" "brown sauce"
.sp
.IG "3 to 4 Tbsp" "Dijon-type prepared mustard"
.IG "2 to 3 Tbsp" "softened butter"
.IG "1/8 tsp" "sugar"
.sp
.IG "2 to 3 Tbsp" "fresh minced parsley"
.PH
.SK 1
Cook the onions slowly (@3-4) with the butter and oil or fat,
for 10 or 15 minutes,
until they are tender and lightly browned.
.SK 2
Add the wine and boil down rapidly until reduced to 3 to 4 tablespoons.
.SK 3
Add the brown sauce and simmer 10 minutes.
Correct seasoning.
.SK 4
Cream the mustard with the butter and sugar.
Off heat, and just before serving, beat the mustard mixture into the sauce.
Taste for seasoning.
Beat in the parsley, and serve.
.bp
.}E
.in -1i
SAUCE BRUNE AUX FINE HERBES or SAUCE BRUNE \*(A` L'ESTRAGON - brown herb or
tarragon sauce
.in
.PP
For: saut\*(e'ed chicken, veal, rabbit, braised vegetables, hot meat 
leftovers, poached or baked eggs.
.PP
From JC, page 73.
.IH "2 cups"
.IG "" "2 to 3-cup saucepan"
.IG "" "6 to 8-cup saucepan"
.sp
.IG "1 cup" "dry white wine"
or 2/3 cup
.I dry white vermouth
.IG "2 Tbsp" "minced shallots"
or
.I green onions
.IG "4 Tbsp" "fresh herbs"
or 2 Tbsp 
.I dried herbs
as follows:
.I "parsley, basil, chervil, rosemary, and oregano,"
or only 
.I tarragon
.sp
.IG "2 cups" "brown sauce""
.sp
.IG "1 to 3 Tbsp" "softened butter"
.IG "2 to 3 Tbsp" "fresh minced parsley"
or
.I mixed green herbs,
or
.I tarragon
.PH
.SK 1
Place the wine, shallots or green onions, and the herbs
in the small saucepan and boil slowly for
10 minutes, 
reducing the wine to 2 or 3 tablespoons.
This is now an herb essence.
.SK 2
Strain the herb essence into the brown sauce in the large saucepan,
pressing the juices out of the herbs,
and simmer for 1 minutes.
.SK 3
Off heat, and just before serving, beat the butter into the sauce by bits,
then beat in the herbs.
.bp
.}E
.in -1i
SAUCE CHASSEUR - brown mushroom sauce with fresh tomatoes. garlic, and herbs
.in
.PP
For: broiled or saut\*(e'ed chicken, veal, rabbit, or for egg dishs,
hot meat leftovers, or pastas.
.PP
From JC, pages 75 and 368.
.IH "2 cups"
.IG "" "10 to 12 inch skillet,"
large enough to hold all the ingredients
.IG "" "10 inch skillet,"
for saut\*(e'ing the mushrooms
.sp
.IG "1/4 cup" "minced shallots"
or
.I green onions
.IG "1 Tbsp" "butter"
.IG "1 Tbsp" "cooking oil"
.sp
.IG "3/4 lb" "firm, ripe, red tomatoes,"
peeled, seeded, juiced, and chopped,
about 1 cup of pulp
.IG "1/2" "clove garlic,"
mashed
.IG "1/4 tsp" "salt"
.IG "pinch" "pepper"
.IG "1/2 tsp" "basil"
or
.I tarragon
.sp
.IG "1/2 cup" "white wine"
or 1/3 cup
.I dry white vermouth
.IG "1/2 cup" "brown sauce,"
or 1/2 cup
.I brown stock
or 
.I canned beef bouillon
plus 1 Tbsp 
.I arrowroot or 
.I cornstarch 
blended with 1 Tbsp water
.sp
.IG "1/2 lb" "sliced fresh mushrooms"
.IG "2 Tbsp" "butter"
.IG "1 Tbsp" "cooking oil"
.IG "" "salt and pepper"
.sp
.IG "2 Tbsp" "fresh minced tarragon, basil,"
or
.I parsley
.PH
.SK 1
Cook the shallots or green onions in the oil and butter at moderately
high heat (@8) for 1 minute.
.SK 2
Stir in the tomatoes, garlic, seasonings, and herbs.
Cover and simmer for 5 minutes.
.SK 3
Pour in the wine, and the brown sauce or stock and starch.
Boil rapidly for 4 to 5 minutes until the sauce has reduced and thickened.
Correct seasoning and remove from heat.
.SK 4
In a separate skillet, saut\*(e' the mushrooms in very hot butter and
oil (@8) to brown lightly.
Add mushrooms to the sauce.
Season sauce to taste.
Simmer for 1 minute.
Correct seasoning again.
.bp
.}E
.in -1i
SAUCE MAD\*(E`RE or SAUCE AU PORTO - brown Madeira or port wine sauce
.in
.PP
For: \fIfilet\fP of beef, or of ham, veal, chicken livers, and egg dishs,
or to sauce a garniture for \fIvol-au-vents\fP.
.PP
From JC, page 75.
.IH "2 cups"
.IG "" "6-cup saucepan"
.sp
.IG "1/2 cup" "Madeira"
or
.I port
.sp
.IG "2 cups" "brown sauce"
.IG "1 to 2 Tbsp" "meat glaze,"
optional
.IG "3 to 4 Tbsp" "Madeira"
or
.I port,
if necessary
.sp
.IG "2 to 3 Tbsp" "softened butter"
.PH
.SK 1
Boil the wine in the saucepan until it has reduced to about 3 tablespoons.
.SK 2
Add the brown sauce and simmer for a minute or two.
Taste and adjust for seasoning,  and for strength by
adding meat glaze if available (substitute, English meat concentrate).
If more wine is needed, add it by tablespoons, simmering briefly to 
evaporate the alcohol.
.SK 3
Just before serving, beat in the butter by bits.
.bp
.}E
.in -1i
SAUCE BORDELAISE - brown sauce with red wine and shallots, and with beef
marrow
.in
.PP
For: steaks or hamburgers.
.PP
From JC, page 420.
.IH "2 cups"
.IG "" "6-cup saucepan,"
or better,
.I "the pan in which the meat dish was prepared"
.sp
.IG "4 Tbsp" "minced shallots"
or
.I green onions.
.IG "1 cup" "red wine"
.IG "big pinch" "thyme, pepper, powdered bay leaf"
.sp
.IG "2 cups" "brown sauce"
or
.I canned beef bouillon
with 2 Tbsp
.I arrowroot
or
.I cornstarch
.IG "" "salt and pepper"
.sp
.IG "2/3 cup" "diced beef marrow,"
.PH
.SK 1
Cook the shallots or green onions and the red wine, boiling until
reduced by half.
.SK 2
Pour in the brown sauce or bouillon and starch, simmer for 3 to 4 minutes
until lightly thickened.
Correct seasoning.
.SK 3
Fold in the marrow.
.NX
If the beef marrow is omitted, one may have 
.I sauce marchand de vins.
.bp
.}E
.in -1i
SAUCE BOURGUIGNONNE - brown sauce with red wine, shallots, and herbs, thickened with flour and butter
.in
.PP
For: steaks, hamburgers, chicken, and egg dishs.
.PP
.I Sauce bourguignonne
should be prepared in the pan in which the meat for which it is intended
was prepared.  For some dishs, such as beef
.I bourguignonne 
or 
.I coq au vin,
the sauce is integral with preparation of the meat.
Traditional garnishes are braised onions and mushrooms.
.PP
The sauce for fish is prepared somewhat differently.
.PP
From JC, page 121; LAROU, page 844.
.IH "2 cups"
.IG "" "6-cup saucepan"
or better,
.I "the pan in which the meat dish was prepared"
.IG "" "wire whip"
.sp
.IG "2 Tbsp" "minced shallots"
or
.I green onions
.IG "2 Tbsp" "butter"
.sp
.IG "2 cups" "red wine"
.IG "" "bouquet garni:"
3 parsley sprigs, 1/2 bay leaf, 1/4 tsp thyme
.IG "1" "clove garlic,"
mashed
.IG "pinch" "cayenne pepper"
.IG "pinch" "pepper"
.sp
.IG "2 cups" "brown sauce"
or
.I brown stock
or
.I canned beef bouillon
.sp
.IG "1-1/2 Tbsp" "softened butter"
.IG "1 Tbsp" "red currant jelly,"
optional
.IG "" "salt and pepper"
.sp
.IG "1 to 2 Tbsp" "softened butter"
.PH
.SK 1
Saut\*(e' for several minutes the shallots or green onions in the butter.
.SK 2
Add the wine, 
.I bouquet garni
and seasonings, and reduce by 2/3.
.SK 3
Add the brown sauce, and reduce to 2 cups total volume.
Remove 
.I bouquet garni.
.SK 4
Blend butter and flour to a smooth paste.
Off heat, blend it into the sauce with a wire whip.
Boil for 30 seconds.
Beat in the optional currant jelly.
Correct seasoning.
.SK 5
Just before serving, reheat to a simmer.
off heat, beat in the final tablespoons of butter.
